Friday, August 23, 2019

Stevens Pass (2019-08-16)

Neil at Stevens Pass: As I approached the top, the feeling of elation started to grow. At the top, I was so overwhelmed that I could've almost cried!

I finally summitted the pass that had been eluding me for years!

Geotagged Album

Related albums:

Washout Before Galena II (Album)
Washout Before Galena (Album)
Gold Bar (Album)
Skykomish II (Album)
To Index…With Friction Shifting! (Album)
Skykomish (Album)

I've been talking about going to Stevens Pass for many years. On my first ride out to Skykomish, my plan was to get to Scenic at least, but it was just too far. I'm glad I split it up into multiple days: the last five miles to the pass are a real doozy! It also gave me time to check out some sights I would've missed otherwise.

More after the break…

Day 1: To Skykomish

Part 1: To Bus
Day 1, Part 1: To Bus

As usual, I started on this ride at about 05:00, then headed east to the University District for the bus to Everett. Along the way, I saw a bright flash over what must've been northern Lake Washington. To this day, I still don't know what that was.

Thankfully, I was able to get a forward-facing seat well before Everett.

Part 2: Outbound
Day 1, Part 2: To Skykomish

After eating a snack at Everett, I headed out on US 2 just like couple months back for speed. The shoulders were still largely in the same state, though most of the construction signs had since been moved. In one part in the Snohomish bypass, however, I saw that the westbound lanes had been moved over and the rumble strips were fully gone.

Immediately east of Monroe, the entire road surface had been ground off for repaving, which wasn't too terrible.

Since I had more time for this ride, I added some breaks from US 2 along Sofie Road and Fern Bluff Road, which provided a nice change of pace.

Sofie Road: On this ride, I added little deviations from US 2 to change things up. They didn't disappoint!
Fern Bluff Road: On this ride, I added little deviations from US 2 to change things up. They didn't disappoint!
Skykomish Valley Farm: On this ride, I added little deviations from US 2 to change things up. They didn't disappoint!

Shortly after snapping a photo of my bike with the Sultan sign while stopped, my bike fell onto a rock and the downtube logo was badly damaged. Since the only shop I could think of that would possibly have clear nail polish was in Gold Bar, I had to be patient regarding doing something about the damage.

Entering Sultan: My bike fell over and got a <a href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/105592384@N07/48588025261">nasty scratch</a> after this photo.
US 2 in Sultan
Downtube Damage: Caused by the bike falling while standing shortly after <a href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/105592384@N07/48588026106">this</a>.

As always, it didn't take long to get to Gold Bar.

Gold Bar Post Office
Gold Bar Post Office

Part of it was because of my new Panaracer GravelKing tires (the non-SK version). They rolled faster and smoother at a much lower pressure than my old mainstay touring tires!

333fab With Panaracer Gravelkings: Since I've learned the trick to changing tires quickly, I decided that I'd like to take advantage of more supple tires. At 55 PSI, 25 MPH feels as smooth as 12 MPH!
333fab With Panaracer Gravelkings: Since I've learned the trick to changing tires quickly, I decided that I'd like to take advantage of more supple tires. At 55 PSI, 25 MPH feels as smooth as 12 MPH!

Unfortunately for me, there was no nail polish at the Family Grocery Store in Gold Bar after all. One of the staff told me to try a clear paint a couple towns back to the west, so I decided to give up on it until I got home a couple days later, and instead enjoy the ride toward the east. I did make one stop before leaving town, though: I'd noticed that construction crews had arrived at the old Gold Bar Market, and wanted to snap a picture. Maybe they're remodeling it instead of demolishing it?

Gold Bar Market: I thought it was <a href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/105592384@N07/48183786846">closed down</a>, but this looks more like a renovation.

As usual, I left Gold Bar via May Creek Road and Reiter Road. Along the former, I noticed that they'd recently repainted the road markings, which lead up to a new paved shoulder for a housing development. How far must one go out to avoid tract housing?

Reiter road was as enjoyable as always, but this time I managed to get all the way to the top without walking! I did have to do the thing where I meandered left and right to reduce the effective grade I had to climb, but that's a fairly standard tactic.

Reiter Road
Reiter Road

I also snapped some photos of the descent at the western end.

Reiter Road: This descent is crazy!
Reiter Road: This descent is crazy!
Index "Wall"

I arrived to some pretty stiff winds in Index, which I don't recall ever experiencing before.

Index
"A Riverside Retreat" Vacation Rental: Looks like a great getaway!
Gunshy Peak Over Index

While I ate in front of the General Store, a guy on a seemingly cobbled-together Schwinn e-bike rolled up, parked it, and went into the store. While he was in there, the shifting winds knocked it over. I hope didn't think I had anything to do with it. Shortly before leaving Index, I noticed that the drinking fountain in Doolittle Pioneer Park had some signs that implied it supplied non-potable water. So why is it a drinking fountain?

Non-Potable Drinking Fountain?: &quot;Town of Index: Not potable water. Use at your own risk.&quot;

For the first time in years, I made a left when I got back to US 2, sending me further into the mountains. The highway at this point was surfaced with the driest, dustiest chipseal I'd ever seen. Talking to locals would later reveal that they'd been doing it this way for much of those years, with a fresh surface followed by a gravel sweep fairly regularly, and with the most recent one being the day before this ride. Nobody was a fan, with the official speed limit being 25-35 MPH depending on the location. I didn't really mind it, though, because my tires were so comfortable.

US 2
Overlooking South Fork Skykomish River

Shortly after getting on the highway, I winched my way up to the Espresso Chalet, a climb that was much easier than I remembered. While stopped, I took some photos for an old couple in front of one Bigfoot statue, and they took some of me in front of the other. I also got a milkshake and a T-shirt, though not the exact print I'd wanted from their selection due to limited stock.

Neil and "Harry"/Bigfoot: An old couple asked me to take their photo with one of the statues here, and they were kind enough to take a couple of me with this statue.
Espresso Chalet: I always enjoys stopping here.
With Bigfoot
Espresso Chalet Wooden Statues
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Got some cool stuff. #bigfoot #harryandthehendersons

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More climbing followed the Espresso Chalet, up to the location where I snapped a favorite photo of mine. Not long after I'd stopped, a silver F-350 rounded the corner, billowing large amounts of smoke from its front, which prompted me to get out of the shoulder. The truck pulled over, and the grass under it promptly caught on fire. Other cars pulled over to try to help, including a BNSF hi-rail truck. People tried pouring water on it, but it took a lot of effort for them to finally put it out. I asked the driver in passing, and he pointed at the trail of oil on the road left by his truck and said that he blew something while climbing the hill. What a terrible situation!

Truck on Fire: While I was taking photos, a silver F-350 towing a trailer turned the corner, billowing huge amounts of smoke. When it stopped, the bush under it caught on fire. According to the driver, the truck had been blown something that caused it to leak oil as it climbed the hill. A bunch of people stopped to help, including a BNSF employee who happened to be passing through. I didn't see the conclusion to this, but the truck did pass me later on that afternoon.
Truck Receiving Assistance: While I was taking photos, a silver F-350 towing a trailer turned the corner, billowing huge amounts of smoke. When it stopped, the bush under it caught on fire. According to the driver, the truck had been blown something that caused it to leak oil as it climbed the hill. A bunch of people stopped to help, including a BNSF employee who happened to be passing through. I didn't see the conclusion to this, but the truck did pass me later on that afternoon.
Mountain over US 2: Tried to reprise a <a href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/105592384@N07/33963506674">past photo</a>, but the clouds were in the way.

While making the descent from that high point to the South Fork Skykomish River, a semi truck zipped by me, spraying me with high-speed dust that stung my arms and legs! At the bottom, I saw a beautiful set of miniature waterfalls on the river and stopped to take photos. How had I not seen that on my past rides?

Waterfalls on South Fork Skykomish River: These really captured my imagination!
Waterfalls on South Fork Skykomish River: These really captured my imagination!
Waterfalls on South Fork Skykomish River: These really captured my imagination!
Waterfalls on South Fork Skykomish River: These really captured my imagination!

After the rapids came some familiar sights in Baring and Grotto.

Baring Store: Really feels like they're copying Leavenworth.
Baring Store Sign

And the Old Cascades Highway bridge and current Cascades Highway tunnel.

On Old Cascade Highway Bridge
Over South Fork Skykomish River
US 2 Tunnel
US 2 Approaching Skykomish

I arrived in Skykomish at about 14:30. I was curious to check out the Sky Deli, only to find that the staff was overloaded. While waiting the 5-10 minutes, I chatted with a guy who had a Cannondale tandem and was very keen on going tubeless with it. Once my wait was over just for two muffins and an orange, I crossed the river into downtown.

Sky Gas & Grocery
Sky Deli & Pizza
South Fork Skykomish River Bridge
Index and South Fork Skykomish River
South Fork Skykomish River
Neil in Skykomish
Skykomish
Old Skykomish Hotel: No idea what's going to happen with this.
Whistling Post Food & Spirits
Skykomish

And finally arrived at my accommodations: the Cascadia Inn. The folks running it were very nice, and even had a back room where I could store my bike. My room was a very basic one, with little more than two beds, a window, and a lamp. The bathrooms were down the hall, with the bathroom itself open to the hall but each shower and toilet having its own full door like any other regular room. Pretty creative way to get around the fire code!

Cascadia Inn
At the Cascadia Inn

Since I was hoping to check out the Great Northern & Cascade Railway before it closed, I headed over to the depot…only to find out that the rides stopped at 15:00 on Friday, not 16:00. Tom, the guy volunteering that day, was nice enough to not only let me ride the train, but drive the locomotive! Imagine my surprise when I was the one spinning the little rheostat to control it!

Skykomish Depot
Railroad Model at Skykomish Depot
Inside Skykomish Depot
Great Northern & Cascade Railway
Neil Operating Great Northern & Cascade Railway Locomotive

After a few loops around the track, I helped him put the locomotive back in the garage and headed into the depot to chat for a bit. When I told him that I rode my bike into town, he told me about his brother who loved bikes and was running a bike shop over in Aspen during the Summer. He also told me of his own love of guitars and how he's been playing since he was a kid, though never professionally. I recall him saying, "There are 8(?) human emotions, and I chose joy." He loved helping people have fun.

Skykomish: The town was built in such a way that the railroad was the &quot;downtown&quot;.

I headed back into town to the Cascadia Inn for dinner, which for me was meat spaghetti with a Caesar salad. It tasted much more homemade than like restaurant fare, which was a pleasant surprise. While I ate, another familiar face showed up to eat: Tom. I only noticed when he said, "I'll have what Neil's having."

Part 3: Miller River
Day 1, Part 3: Miller River

Once done with dinner, I went out for a spin to the Miller River Washout on the Old Cascades Highway, which didn't disappoint.

Skykomish Fire Department
Old Cascades Highway
BNSF Quarry Branch Crossing
BNSF Scenic Subdivision and Miller River Bridge
On Old Cascades Highway Bridge
Miller River: Its former course.
Old Cascades Highway Miller River Washout
Miller River Washout: The Old Cascade Highway—former US 2—used to be here.
Old Cascades Highway Miller River Bridge
At Old Cascades Highway Closure: A police officer came up while I was taking this photo. I had to wave to him to not run over my camera, but he didn't understand until he came out and talked to me. He said he wouldn't run over it, but I picked it up anyway.

While I was out past the road closure, I saw what I thought was an SUV drive down one of the gravel driveways off the road. I saw exactly what it was while I was taking that last photo: a police car. I waved to the officer to try to tell him that my camera was in the road, but he didn't understand until he got out to talk to me. He kept assuring me that he wouldn't run over my camera, but I was on edge because I went past the closure and picked up my camera anyway. Once we were done talking, he went down another gravel driveway. Where in the world was he going?

Once back in town, I went to the local bar: The Whistling Post. Out front was a little kid cursing out his dad, using words that I never would've expected a kid of that age to know. Thankfully, the bar had a much better atmosphere, with decor and music that really jived with me. Hungry after the ride, I had a Polish sausage, chips, and a Bud Light. I normally wouldn't choose such a light beer, but I wanted to not be too out of it the next morning, and it was quite satisfying after such a long day.

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Really enjoying this place. #bar #pub #saloon

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After leaving the bar, I headed back to the inn to take a shower, brush my teeth, and head to bed for the night.

Day 2: Stevens Pass

Day 2 Elevations: Skykomish to Stevens Pass
Uphill
Day 2, Part 1: Uphill to Stevens Pass

I started at about 06:00 on the second day. It started fairly normally, with fairly easy grades for miles on US 2, but when I left it for the Old Cascades Highway, it started pitching up more. Along the way, I recognized the widened section of the highway where I turned back on my first outing this way, which was fairly nondescript otherwise. The Old Cascades Highway felt like I was riding through a tunnel of trees along rivers for much of the way, which is a feeling that's hard to find in the Seattle Metropolitan Area.

US 2
Old Cascades Highway
Old Cascades Highway
Old Cascades Highway
Old Cascades Highway Bridge
P8170495
Old Cascades Highway Bridge

I saw a turn off for the Iron Goat Trail partway up the highway, and hung a left onto a gravel road. After climbing for a while, I stopped to consider whether it was even worth making the climb. After looking at a map, I decided against it, since I wasn't even a third the way up, and honestly dreaded the descent on the dusty gravel. Going back down, I felt pretty dumb after jumping into that without a thought.

National Forest Development Road 6710: I turned onto this gravel road because I saw a sign for the Iron Goat Trail. After realizing how much further it would be, I decided to turn back, feeling stupid.
National Forest Development Road 6710: I turned onto this gravel road because I saw a sign for the Iron Goat Trail. After realizing how much further it would be, I decided to turn back, feeling stupid.

Not long after returning to the Old Cascades Highway, the road joined up with the Tye River, which provided even more beautiful sights.

Tye River
Old Cascades Highway and Tye River
Old Cascades Highway and Tye River

Before getting back onto US 2, I made a quick stop at the Iron Goat Trail Interpretive Site, which featured some information boards and an old Great Northern Caboose.

Iron Goat Interpretive Site
Iron Goat Trail Interpretive Center

The restroom also featured this odd bit of graffiti.

Inside the Iron Goat Trail Interpretive Center Restrooms: Spooky!

Once back on US 2, I looked for the turnoff for the old highway, which was what I'd originally planned to take up to Stevens Pass.

US 2
Forest Over US 2

What I found was not what I'd expected at all: loose 'gravel' that looked more like ground up asphalt that had been spread across the right of way. In hopes that there would only be a little of this, I pressed forward…until I found more of it after a proper paved section. Since I knew I would've ended up having a horrible time climbing this for hours, I gave up on the old highway.

Old Stevens Pass Highway: I tried the old highway first, but the gravel was such that I would've had a horrible time climbing on it for hours.
Old Stevens Pass Highway: I tried the old highway first, but the gravel was such that I would've had a horrible time climbing on it for hours.

Back on US 2, I started my climb in earnest. After one hairpin over a creek, the valley to the left disappeared into the fog. With the clouds to my left and only rock faces to my right, I had the constant feeling of climbing into the sky.

US 2
US 2 Bridge
US 2
US 2
US 2
US 2 Rock Cut

It felt like it kept going up and up with no end in sight, so when I finally did see signs of the Stevens Pass ski resort, I started getting excited.

Nearing the Top…: As I approached the top, the feeling of elation started to grow. At the top, I was so overwhelmed that I could've almost cried!

Once at the top, I turned into the parking lot and the feeling of elation nearly brought me to tears. The combination of joy of both finally getting to the stop of Stevens Pass after so many years and summitting a pass after a similar amount of time, the high from the rigorous exercise, and the relief of being done climbing after hours overcame me! Others had apparently witnessed my effort, as when I asked a group of guys if someone wouldn't mind taking a photo, they said that I really deserved it after what I'd done.

Neil at Stevens Pass: As I approached the top, the feeling of elation started to grow. At the top, I was so overwhelmed that I could've almost cried!
Neil at Stevens Pass: As I approached the top, the feeling of elation started to grow. At the top, I was so overwhelmed that I could've almost cried!

Stevens Pass was a hive of activity, with full parking lots and lots of people here for both the resort and the mountain bike park.

Stevens Pass Parking Lot
Granite Peaks Lodge
Pacific Crest Lodge: It was pretty dead.
Stevens Pass Mountain Bike Park
Stevens Pass Mountain Bike Park
Stevens Pass Mountain Bike Park

I went inside the lodge to get a hot sandwich and some hot chocolate to warm up, because I know I'd freeze going down. While inside, I saw the long line for something related to the mountain bike park.

Inside Granite Peaks Lodge
Inside Granite Peaks Lodge

Before leaving, I explored the park a little more. While doing so, I chatted with someone who was doing a through hike of the Pacific Crest Trail all the way from Mexico to Canada, and who had just turned down what I think was the shuttle (a Volkswagen Vanagon) to Skykomish.. He said he loved living off the grid and hated how man-made the park at Stevens Pass was.

Stevens Pass Mountain Bike Park
Stevens Pass Mountain Bike Park
Mountains Over US 2
US 2 Climb From Above
Stevens Pass
Stevens Pass Mountain Bike Park
Downhill
Day 2, Part 2: Downhill to Skykomish

The descent started fast and I easily hit 35-40 MPH. Every stop was a nightmare until I waited a little longer to put my foot down, which is a habit that I should'se already been practicing. I was also freezing to the point where my teeth were chattering, and had to put both a sweater and a jacket on before I kept warm enough.

Tye River Valley
Tye River Valley: Not far from Stevens Pass.

It was pretty crazy to see the highway way down below. Similarly, once down further, I could see it way up the mountain.

Tye River Valley: That's US 2 down there!
US 2 on Cowboy Mountain: I was up there!

At this point, my telephoto lens was starting to act up. It wasn't coming online and was making a sort of strained motor noise. After giving up after several tries, I resigned to the fact that the last photo it would ever take would be of the western portal of BNSF's Cascade Tunnel. I'd gotten thousands of photos over several years with this lens, so I thought this would be a good sign that I should invest in a nicer lens, and get this one repaired as a backup.

BNSF Cascade Tunnel West Portal: This is the last photo my telephoto lens was able to take before it died.
BNSF Scenic Subdivision

As I continued down US 2, I saw the turn off for Deception Falls and decided to stop for some more photos.

Lower Deception Falls
Lower Deception Falls
Upper Deception Falls
Deception Falls Park

It wasn't much longer until I got back to Skykomish.

US 2
Skykomish Ranger Station
Great Northern Caboose: On private property.
Skykomish Post Office

I was surprised to find that it actually had a local library, though it was only open three days a week.

Skykomish Library: Only open three days a week!

I dropped my bike off at the Cascadia Inn before walking around town some. I explored the local farmers' market, saw some yarn-bombed bikes, and chatted with the local toy store's owner who was really excited about the Great Northern Criterium. When I mentioned how I got to Skykomish, he kept insisting that I check out something called Cherry Valley Road near Carnation as an alternative route to Sultan, and that one of the local bar's employees was familiar with the route. He also was excited about recent improvements to a local park.

Skykomish Farmers' Market: Very small.
Yarn-bombed Bikes: Someone in Skykomish was having fun!
Skykomish Toot Sweet: A toy store with very limited hours. The owner was very excited about the Great Northern Criterium that was held recently.

After I asked for a table at the inn's restaurant, I saw a guy rolling into town on a Soma Double Cross Disc, so I asked for the hostess to hold my table and went out to chat with him. He said he used to work for the railroad and was riding from Seattle to Wenatchee, where his car was parked. We talked bike and rides for a while, and I mentioned that I'd hoped to beat traffic on my return trip the next day. He wasn't so sure, because some folks go to church pretty early, but he thought I'd avoid RVs and other recreational visitors heading back into the lowlands. I had to break the conversation because I was pretty hungry, and because I'd left the hostess at the restaurant hanging.

I had what the restaurant called a "hot meatloaf sandwich" for dinner, which was more akin to meatloaf and gravy over slices of bread, mashed potatoes, and a Caesar salad. Very tasty!

Once done with dinner, I headed over to the bar, where I found both the toy store's owner and the bar employee he had been talking about. Said employee said that the route was Forest Service Development Road 62, and that it didn't quite get to Carnation but did get to North Bend. He also said it required a permit from Weyerhaeuser, and later investigation showed that the restriction had been in place due to unruly people leaving trash everywhere.

Once done with my drink at the bar, I headed to the inn's bathroom for a shower, where I ended up striking up a conversation with the guy with the Double Cross for a good 20-30 minutes. An older gentleman joined our conversation, telling how he was in the middle of a through hike from Mexico to Canada. He said that he wasn't doing it in a solid block, but rather would take shuttles/buses to nearby major cities to check them out along the way before returning to the trail. He was also excited to go bikepacking in Vietnam on his new bikepacking bike. He also told of a guy whose wife had left him after two of those through hikes within the space of a year.

I ended up breaking the conversation when I left, as we all wanted to shower. After showering and brushing my teeth, I headed to bed, in love with the town of Skykomish.

Day 3: Return Home

Inbound
Day 3, Part 1: Return via Everett

I started my return trip on US 2 early at 05:00 to avoid traffic as much as possible.

Grotto Sign
Former Shop

Aside from a little drizzle here and there, and how fast I was descending the whole way to Gold Bar, it was pretty quiet and uneventful. I had to stop to use the restroom a lot as I wasn't consuming enough salt to balance out my water intake, which was pretty irritating.

US 2: Some of the driest, dustiest chipseal I've ever seen!
Zeke's Drive-in: I still want to try this place sometime.

I made a quick stop at the grocery store in Gold Bar to top off my water and get a soda.

I then passed through Startup and Sultan, where I got a better look at the construction of the new bike/pedestrian bridge on the north side of US 2.

Sultan Pedestrian/Bicycle Bridge: Pretty exciting to see it <a href="https://ci.sultan.wa.us/sultan-pedestrian-and-bicycle-bridge-grant-receives-final-approval/" rel="noreferrer nofollow">approved</a> and underway!
Sultan Pedestrian/Bicycle Bridge: Pretty exciting to see it <a href="https://ci.sultan.wa.us/sultan-pedestrian-and-bicycle-bridge-grant-receives-final-approval/" rel="noreferrer nofollow">approved</a> and underway!
Sultan Red Apple Market

Traffic started to get worse by the time I got to Sultan, but I got another reprieve on Fern Bluff Road.

Fern Bluff Road: On this ride, I added little deviations from US 2 to change things up. They didn't disappoint!
Fern Bluff Road: On this ride, I added little deviations from US 2 to change things up. They didn't disappoint!
Skykomish River Valley

When I got into Monroe, I realized that I'd forgotten to route myself around the US 2/SR-522 interchange, but traffic was light enough that I was able to just go through it like a car.

I saw the modifications to US 2 up close as I rode between Snohomish and Monroe. I didn't stick with the highway through Snohomish this time, however, instead going through Downtown Snohomish and taking Lowell River Road.

"Widened" US 2: From what I can tell, they're removing the rumble strips, moving the lanes outward, expanding the center strip, and adding a median barrier.
Snohomish Public Restroom: Less than ten miles left!

At this point, I had a very good rhythm, so it didn't take very long to get to Everett. I didn't have a very long wait for the bus, either.

Return Home
Day 3, Part 2: Return Home

When I got off the bus in the University District, the bright, blue sky caught me off guard. I hadn't seen any significant amount of the Sun since Friday!

I had to stop to use the restroom one last time at Gasworks Park. Before doing so, I saw a guy who had both a half frame bag and a large Rivendell trunk bag. He said he was in the middle of a mini tour between Lake Stevens an Alki to visit family, who would be taking him back home to Lake Stevens later. Sounds like something I'd do!

It didn't take long for me to get home from there, and I was pretty happy to get a chance to relax again.

This trip ended up being even more of a life experience than I thought. I don't think I'll ever forget it, just like my tour across the state back in 2015. It also cemented my desire to move out of the city, and folks I talked to in Skykomish said they left the Seattle area for the mountains for similar reasons to mine.

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